A revolution, or perhaps a restoration, is underway in Rioja. In the ancient Alavesa village of Labastida, five talented, independent farmers have reclaimed their cosechero heritage, growing grapes and producing wine from their own unique plots. In 2020, they began gathering at Granja Nuestra Señora de Remelluri to pursue their shared vision of Labastida’s viticultural future, and now, their single-vineyard expressions have come to life.

Each cosechero is the latest generation in their family to farm grapes, investing their life’s work in the practice, and doing their small part in ensuring a productive future for Labastida. Together, they’re protecting their village from succumbing to the industrial model endemic in Rioja, and showing the world the incredible diversity and quality to be found here. Telmo Rodríguez and his family put Labastida on the map with the wines of Remelluri, and their intention has always been to preserve the village’s beauty and identity. By opening the doors to Remelluri’s top-notch facilities, the sons of these five other grower-families have the chance to independently make their own wines, with the best grapes from their best vineyards. Remelluri is both an example and an incubator for these growers, creating conditions that make success more achievable than going it alone, or simply selling out.

These five single-vineyard Labastida wines, through the lens of excellent viticulture, gentle vinification, and restrained élevage, reveal the diversity of these small (0.4-1.5ha) family holdings, representing a range of grape varieties, soil types, exposures, and elevations. Amazingly, all five plots are located within an expanse of barely 3km, just to the north and the east of the horseshoe curve of the Ebro where Álava meets La Rioja. Cosecheros de Labastida shifts the priorities of Rioja from wines made in the cellar to wines made in the vineyard—a progression toward a “Rioja less traveled”, steered by growers who are inspired to translate the wonder of their family land into the bottle; a Rioja that champions people and place over brand.

Profile – “Luis Salazar, representing the fifth generation of the Salazar grape grower family, fondly remembers how his grandfather used to punish him by making him work in this vineyard. What was once a punishment has now become his future. The Los Herreros vineyard, nestled on a hillside and protected from adverse weather, was planted and grafted by his father’s uncle using a massale selection of the best grapevines from their estate. The Los Herreros vineyard stands as the Salazar family’s legacy in Labastida.”

Vinification – Grapes are hand-harvested in the morning in 10kg crates to ensure freshness. After a manual selection in the winery, grapes are destemmed and cold-soaked for three days before native yeasts begin fermentation, during which the must is pumped over twice daily. Once fermentation is complete, the must macerates with the skins for 3-4 days. Free-run juice is racked into one 500L barrel and 225L French oak barrels of second and third use, with a small percentage of American oak, where it undergoes malolactic fermentation. After MLF, the wine rests for 12-18 months in barrel before being bottled and rested for an additional two years.

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