A revolution, or perhaps a restoration, is underway in Rioja. In the ancient Alavesa village of Labastida, five talented, independent farmers have reclaimed their cosechero heritage, growing grapes and producing wine from their own unique plots. In 2020, they began gathering at Granja Nuestra Señora de Remelluri to pursue their shared vision of Labastida’s viticultural future, and now, their single-vineyard expressions have come to life.

Each cosechero is the latest generation in their family to farm grapes, investing their life’s work in the practice, and doing their small part in ensuring a productive future for Labastida. Together, they’re protecting their village from succumbing to the industrial model endemic in Rioja, and showing the world the incredible diversity and quality to be found here. Telmo Rodríguez and his family put Labastida on the map with the wines of Remelluri, and their intention has always been to preserve the village’s beauty and identity. By opening the doors to Remelluri’s top-notch facilities, the sons of these five other grower-families have the chance to independently make their own wines, with the best grapes from their best vineyards. Remelluri is both an example and an incubator for these growers, creating conditions that make success more achievable than going it alone, or simply selling out.

These five single-vineyard Labastida wines, through the lens of excellent viticulture, gentle vinification, and restrained élevage, reveal the diversity of these small (0.4-1.5ha) family holdings, representing a range of grape varieties, soil types, exposures, and elevations. Amazingly, all five plots are located within an expanse of barely 3km, just to the north and the east of the horseshoe curve of the Ebro where Álava meets La Rioja. Cosecheros de Labastida shifts the priorities of Rioja from wines made in the cellar to wines made in the vineyard—a progression toward a “Rioja less traveled”, steered by growers who are inspired to translate the wonder of their family land into the bottle; a Rioja that champions people and place over brand.

Profile – “Alberto Martínez represents the fourth generation of a Labastida grape grower family that began with his great-grandfather, affectionately known as “El Chato.” The Larrazuri vineyard was clandestinely planted by Alberto’s grandfather and father during the post-war period when vine planting was prohibited due to food shortages. Year after year, they added rows of vines hidden among lentils and chickpeas, convinced of the vineyard’s immense value. Today, Alberto Martínez pays tribute to his family by crafting wine from these historic vines.”

Vinification – Larrazuri (‘white fields’ in Basque) is usually the first to be harvested as it is the earliest-ripening vineyard. Grapes are hand-harvested in 12kg crates. After a manual selection in the winery, grapes are cold-soaked in stainless steel tanks for 4-5 days until native yeasts begin fermentation, during which the wine is pumped over twice daily. When fermentation has finished, there is a 4-5 day maceration with gentle wetting of the cap. Only free run juice is racked into 225L French oak barrels of second and third use where it completes malolactic fermentation. Once MLF is finished, part of the wine is racked into the same types of barrels, and another part is racked into a single new barrel where it spends 2-3 months before being racked into used barrels. The wine spends 14-15 months in those used barrels with one racking before it is bottled and rested for two years.

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