Vincent Gaudry ‘Mélodie de Vieilles Vignes’ Sancerre 2023
Vincent Gaudry ‘Mélodie de Vieilles Vignes’ Sancerre 2023
For those in the know, Vincent Gaudry has been handcrafting some of the most essential, soulful wines of the Loire River Valley for over 30 years in his craftsman cellar in the tiny hamlet of Chambre, near Sury-en-Vaux, Sancerre. Vincent is a true minimalist whose guiding principle is “Trust in Nature.” The domaine was established by Vincent’s grandfather, and Vincent was only 16 years old when he joined his father in the family business in 1991.
Vincent immediately began converting to organic farming in 1995, obtaining certification in 2002. With a desire to go even further, he developed a deep appreciation for biodynamic farming. Vincent began farming his vineyards with biodynamic principles in 2000, becoming the first producer in Sancerre with a Demeter certification in 2004, upon witnessing firsthand the positive relationship between the vineyards, forests, and their animal inhabitants brought on by his regenerative agricultural practices. Vincent works with nature and a sober pragmatism to maintain a balance in his vineyards and wine. Today, he and his wife Séverine farm 11 hectares of vineyards with holistically regenerative practices.
Gaudry wines are in tune with the elements, instilling a feeling of being profoundly connected to the land. Driven by his deep respect for the wisdom of past generations of local vignerons, Gaudry’s wines are inspired by history and, as a result, are among the most transparent, soulful, and authentic in the region. They are also amongst the most limited due to his artisanal scale. Of course Vincent’s wines are world-class and profound in substance, yet he does not take himself too seriously and is quick to share a joke and open his best bottles for guests. His quest for quality and authenticity is all about living life with great energy and joy, evidenced by his warm, generous, and convivial nature. He is not interested in accolades or notoriety—merely carrying on the knowledge of previous generations in Sancerre, showing what is possible in the region going forward.
Many of the domaine’s parcels are over 60 years old, which is relatively unheard of in today’s Sancerre, with its focus on high-yielding quantity over quality. Gaudry’s cuvée ‘Mélodie de Vieilles Vignes’ is made mostly from one parcel in the lieu-dit La Rabotine, a 1.5ha west-exposed slope on Kimmeridgian clay terres blanches in Sury-en-Vaux, where the vines are 50-90 years old. Vincent refers to this wine as “bottling the wisdom of the old vines.” The vineyard is plowed only by horse, as the topsoil is no more than a foot deep before reaching the limestone bedrock, which is hard to penetrate for the roots.
This wine is an outstanding Sancerre, showing elegant aromas of ripe pear, quince, citrus, and lime. The soils’ minerality is captured in the concentrated fruit, which unfolds in layers of complexity. Gaudry’s amazing attention to detail from vineyard to bottle shines through in this cuvée’s exceptionally long finish. It is a superb food wine that will improve in bottle for several years.