Vincent Gaudry À Mi-Chemin Sancerre 2021
Vincent Gaudry À Mi-Chemin Sancerre 2021
For those in the know, Vincent Gaudry has been handcrafting some of the most essential, soulful wines of the Loire River Valley for over 30 years in his craftsman cellar in the tiny hamlet of Chambre, near Sury-en-Vaux, Sancerre. Vincent is a true minimalist whose guiding principle is “Trust in Nature.” The domaine was established by Vincent’s grandfather, and Vincent was only 16 years old when he joined his father in the family business in 1991.
Vincent immediately began converting to organic farming in 1995, obtaining organic certification in 2002. With a desire to go even further, he developed a deep appreciation for biodynamic farming and the balance it brought to his vineyards. Vincent began farming his vineyards with biodynamic principles in 2000, becoming the first producer in Sancerre with a Demeter certification in 2004, upon witnessing firsthand the positive relationship between the vineyards, forests, and their animal inhabitants brought on by his regenerative agricultural practices. Vincent works with nature and a sober pragmatism to maintain a balance in his vineyards and wine. Today, he and his wife Séverine farm 11 hectares of vineyards with certified organic, biodynamic, and regenerative practices.
Gaudry wines are in tune with the elements, instilling a feeling of being profoundly connected to the land. Driven by his deep respect for the wisdom of past generations of local vignerons, Gaudry’s wines are inspired by history and, as a result, are among the most transparent, soulful, and authentic in the region. They are also amongst the most limited due to his artisanal scale.
One important trait to note about Vincent is his warm, generous and convivial nature. Of course Vincent’s wines are world-class and profound in substance, yet he does not take himself too seriously and is quick to share a joke and open his best bottles for guests. His quest for quality and authenticity is all about living life with great energy and joy. He is not interested in accolades or notoriety—rather he is content to share his lessons learned from previous generations in Sancerre, showing what is possible in the region.
À Mi-Chemin was the first of Vincent’s duo of top, singular cuvées (Pour Vous being the second). Without hyperbole, both expressions blur the line between wine and art. À Mi-Chemin follows the tradition of the past century of vinification and aging in wood barrels for two years before bottling, as well as the methods Vincent learned from local village elders over the years. It is a deeply unique and personal “unicorn” wine, made only in the best vintages, when it is always among the most profound white wines produced in France’s Loire Valley.
À Mi-Chemin is the oldest 0.5ha part at the top of the lieu-dit Les Bouloises, a 35+ year-old vineyard with a perfect southwest exposed slope just under the woods, planted in dense, heavy, ferrous Silex soils near the village of Saint-Satur, at 350m. Les Bouloises is located on the very top of the steepest part of the south-facing hill near his grandfather’s cabin. At the top of this parcel there is an optical illusion where Vincent feels like he could reach out and touch the village of Sancerre (just 2km away) and the burnt-red silex reflects the shimmering afternoon light in a way that makes him feel like he is halfway to paradise, or “à mi-chemin”.
The silex boulders in Les Bouloises are so dense that plowing is almost impossible, as the terroir eventually destroys any machines used. Working this vineyard by tractor can be extremely dangerous due to the slope and boulders. The vineyard is surrounded by forests that protect it from the north wind, with the flinty soils providing an incredible amount of light reflection, creating conditions ideal for photosynthesis.
The Les Bouloises parcel for À Mi-Chemin is hand-harvested and vinified separately each year, and then after aging in 60-hectoliter used French foudre for a year, Vincent tastes the wine, studying its energy, power, and emotional resonance. If the vintage speaks to him, À Mi-Chemin spends another year on its fine lees in a used, 60-hectoliter French foudre without bâtonnage, before being bottled by hand in tiny quantities directly from barrel, without fining or filtration with a traditional copper spout by a method called “mis à la chèvre.” If the conditions of the vintage are not right to produce the energy Vincent is looking for to make À Mi-Chemin, the barrel is blended into his primary cuvée Tournebride.
Ever the quintessential craftsman in every level of his work, Vincent is equally dedicated to ensuring the safe voyage of his wines through an investment in the best corks in the market to seal his bottles. Vincent’s corks come from an artisan producer on the island of Sardinia. His corks are natural, produced without the use of chemical treatments or glues, and are aged for 13 years. The resulting corks, which are exceptionally dense and strong, are checked by machine and guaranteed against defects like cork taint. Each cork sealing a bottle of Vincent Gaudry À Mi-Chemin costs him an average of three euros to produce.
Finally, each label is hand-drawn and labeled by Vincent, then wrapped in the region’s traditional straw sleeves (produced by the last company in France making them), before being packed in wooden cases of six bottles for shipment.
Stylistically, À Mi-Chemin is full-bodied, fresh, and refined on the palate, offering incredible complexity—a long and elegant Sancerre that offers contrasting textures of richness with finesse, grip and elegance. À Mi-Chemin is built to improve in bottle, offering many years of development and pleasure when properly cellared—Vincent’s gift to you from “the valley that smiles” in Sancerre.