A revolution, or perhaps a restoration, is underway in Rioja. In the ancient Alavesa village of Labastida, five talented, independent farmers have reclaimed their cosechero heritage, growing grapes and producing wine from their own unique plots. In 2020, they began gathering at Granja Nuestra Señora de Remelluri to pursue their shared vision of Labastida’s viticultural future, and now, their single-vineyard expressions have come to life.

Each cosechero is the latest generation in their family to farm grapes, investing their life’s work in the practice, and doing their small part in ensuring a productive future for Labastida. Together, they’re protecting their village from succumbing to the industrial model endemic in Rioja, and showing the world the incredible diversity and quality to be found here. Telmo Rodríguez and his family put Labastida on the map with the wines of Remelluri, and their intention has always been to preserve the village’s beauty and identity. By opening the doors to Remelluri’s top-notch facilities, the sons of these five other grower-families have the chance to independently make their own wines, with the best grapes from their best vineyards. Remelluri is both an example and an incubator for these growers, creating conditions that make success more achievable than going it alone, or simply selling out.

These five single-vineyard Labastida wines, through the lens of excellent viticulture, gentle vinification, and restrained élevage, reveal the diversity of these small (0.4-1.5ha) family holdings, representing a range of grape varieties, soil types, exposures, and elevations. Amazingly, all five plots are located within an expanse of barely 3km, just to the north and the east of the horseshoe curve of the Ebro where Álava meets La Rioja. Cosecheros de Labastida shifts the priorities of Rioja from wines made in the cellar to wines made in the vineyard—a progression toward a “Rioja less traveled”, steered by growers who are inspired to translate the wonder of their family land into the bottle; a Rioja that champions people and place over brand.

Profile – Íñigo Perea embodies the history of the Perea family in Labastida, tracing their arrival from Salinas de Añana in 1819. Espinobendito, a vineyard that had already been worked by Íñigo’s great-grandfather, adheres to traditional practices, with vines planted among fruit trees – peach, fig, and apple – featuring both red and white grape varieties. Passed down through generations, this vineyard owes its survival to Íñigo’s grandfather, Agustín Perea, who recognized the value of these ancient vines and protected them from replanting. Although the vineyard dates back to 1920, it is estimated to be even older, possibly preceding 1890.

Vinification – Íñigo is among the last to harvest, as the Garnacha in his vineyard is later-ripening. Grapes are hand-harvested in 12kg crates. After a manual selection in the winery, grapes are destemmed and fermented with native yeasts in old 500L French oak barrels known as bocoys. The grapes ferment for 20-25 days with pump-overs twice a day. Once fermentation is complete, the grapes are gently pressed. The wine is racked into used 500 and 225L barrels, where it undergoes malolactic fermentation for at least five weeks. After MLF is complete, the wine is racked into used 500L and 225L barrels where it rests for 18-24 months with racking once a year until bottling.

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