Domaine Lupin
Savoie | Alpine
In the village of Frangy, in the heart of the Savoie, Domaine Lupin makes transparent and generous Alpine wines from altesse and mondeuse.
Introducing the Estate
Humble Expertise
Bruno Lupin is the opposite of the “rockstar” winemaker. But despite—or perhaps because of—his quiet, modest nature, he is widely respected among winemakers in the Savoie as an authority both on vineyard management and enology. Located smack in the center of Frangy, his tiny cellar is next door to his sister’s country inn, where locals gather for a coffee, a glass of wine, or a traditional lunch of fondue.
After working for nearly 15 years as the head winemaker at the Cave de Genève co-op in Switzerland, Bruno returned home to Frangy to take over the family domaine. Marrying the meticulous approach to vinification he learned in Switzerland with his desire to farm organically and take a hands-off approach in the winery, today he makes wines that are among the finest expressions of the altesse and mondeuse grapes in the Savoie.
History & Origins
A Frangy Family
The Lupin family have lived in Frangy for over a century, where Bruno’s grandfather—known as Pépé—began making wines to sell in Switzerland. The work was carried on by Bruno’s father François as Bruno completed his enology studies in Beaune. Instead of returning home, Bruno went to work for the Cave de Genève, a large cooperative winery across the border in Switzerland, where he was Chief of Vinification for nearly 15 years. Running such a large operation required a high-level precision and meticulousness, as any error could have led to disaster.
Eventually, Bruno tired of making wines for volume and decided to come back to the family estate. In 1998, at the age of 35, he returned to Frangy to take over Domaine Lupin from his father, transferring the skills he had learned at the Cave de Genève to a much smaller scale of winemaking. Upon his return, Bruno began converting his family vineyards to organic farming.
Today, Domaine Lupin champions the altesse grape via the flagship Roussette de Savoie and the age-worthy Cuvée du Pépé, and makes a miniscule amount of mondeuse.
Somewhere in Savoie
Alpine Artisanship
Frangy lies outside of the Savoie’s main production area, in a valley formed by the Les Usses River. Here, most vineyards are planted with altesse—known locally as roussette—rather than the jacquère which is common in the rest of the region. Frangy has historically been recognized as a privileged place for altesse and is one of four villages with Cru de Savoie status, a village-level designation within the Roussette de Savoie AOP.
Process & Philosophy
No Shortcuts
The Lupin family vineyards are planted above the village on a hillside called Les Aricoques. Fully south-facing and protected from the harsh northerly winds, the hill captures the sun’s warmth and ensures full, even ripening. This means Bruno is able to harvest his grapes at optimal ripeness and health—the first step in making low-intervention wine. All of the vineyard work in Les Aricoques is done by hand, which requires massive physical stamina. Luckily Bruno, a regular marathon runner, has that in spades.
In the winery, Bruno takes a hands-off approach with minimal intervention. Fermentation begins spontaneously with indigenous yeasts, and he keeps sulfur levels to the bare minimum for cleanliness. The whites are fermented to dryness, which is somewhat uncommon in the region: most producers leave a certain amount of residual sugar to cover up altesse’s characteristic high acidity, to the detriment of their wines’ structure and ability to age. Bruno uses partial malolactic fermentation to balance body and freshness, and never corrects his acidity. His wines are structured with the ability to develop elegantly in bottle for many years.
Products
Wine
Domaine Lupin Frangy Cuvée du Pépé 2021
Domaine Lupin Roussette de Savoie Frangy 2024
