A revolution, or perhaps a restoration, is underway in Rioja. In the ancient Alavesa village of Labastida, five talented, independent farmers have reclaimed their cosechero heritage, growing grapes and producing wine from their own unique plots. In 2020, they began gathering at Granja Nuestra Señora de Remelluri to pursue their shared vision of Labastida’s viticultural future, and now, their single-vineyard expressions have come to life.

Each cosechero is the latest generation in their family to farm grapes, investing their life’s work in the practice, and doing their small part in ensuring a productive future for Labastida. Together, they’re protecting their village from succumbing to the industrial model endemic in Rioja, and showing the world the incredible diversity and quality to be found here. Telmo Rodríguez and his family put Labastida on the map with the wines of Remelluri, and their intention has always been to preserve the village’s beauty and identity. By opening the doors to Remelluri’s top-notch facilities, the sons of these five other grower-families have the chance to independently make their own wines, with the best grapes from their best vineyards. Remelluri is both an example and an incubator for these growers, creating conditions that make success more achievable than going it alone, or simply selling out.

These five single-vineyard Labastida wines, through the lens of excellent viticulture, gentle vinification, and restrained élevage, reveal the diversity of these small (0.4-1.5ha) family holdings, representing a range of grape varieties, soil types, exposures, and elevations. Amazingly, all five plots are located within an expanse of barely 3km, just to the north and the east of the horseshoe curve of the Ebro where Álava meets La Rioja. Cosecheros de Labastida shifts the priorities of Rioja from wines made in the cellar to wines made in the vineyard—a progression toward a “Rioja less traveled”, steered by growers who are inspired to translate the wonder of their family land into the bottle; a Rioja that champions people and place over brand.

Profile – “Saigoba, the first vineyard acquired by Jorge Gil after he became a grape grower, was nearly abandoned when he first visited it. However, inspired by his grandfather Adolfo´s words, he decided to purchase it. Jorge, aware of the challenging recovery work ahead, knew that this vineyard could eventually tell its story again. Today, Saigoba symbolizes respect for his family’s history, and Jorge is proud to represent the third generation of Gil family grape growers. For him, Saigoba is also a place of contemplation.”

Vinification – Grapes are hand-harvested in 12kg crates. After a manual selection in the winery, bunches are destemmed and cold-soaked for 3-4 days in stainless steel tanks before native yeasts begin fermentation during which the must is pumped over twice daily. Halfway through fermentation, healthy stems are added to the top of the cap and gently moistened to add freshness. After fermentation has finished, free run juice and juice from the first pressing are blended and racked into fourth-use 500L barrels and one 225L barrel where they undergo malolactic fermentation. After MLF is completed, the wine rests for 14-18 months in barrel before being bottled and rested for an additional two years.

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