What's New in December

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Lindes de Remelluri: An exploration of site in Rioja

For us, the future of Rioja lies in the exploration of different sites within the region. The traditional classification system of Rioja – crianza, reserva, etc. – is entirely about process and says nothing about place. Telmo Rodriguez and the Remelluri estate are at the forefront of shifting this discussion.

The Lindes de Remelluri project grows out of this quest for site specificity. For years, Remelluri has worked with farmers on the edges of the winery’s property, buying their grapes and adding them to the Remelluri blend. But when Telmo came on board, he decided that the Remelluri wine should be made entirely from estate-grown fruit. Instead of leaving the farmers hanging, though, he decided to keep buying the grapes and to vinify them separately, creating a different wine: Lindes de Remelluri.

Starting with the 2010 vintage, the project has been pushed even further, and the fruit from the borders of Remelluri has been separated by village to create two different wines expressing two different terroirs: San Vincente and Labastida.

While the soil types are similar in the two sites, the Labastida vineyards are right up against the Sierra de Cantabria, while the San Vincente vineyards are a little lower down. This makes Labastida cooler and rainier than San Vincente, so the wines are a little leaner. San Vincente, by contrast, shows riper fruit and more tannic presence.

The Lindes de Remelluri project is moving the conversation about Rioja forward, showing that what’s important is where the wines are from rather than how long they spent in barrel.