A Drink From The Porron
Northwest Spain Part 3
Interior Galicia: Carved by Water
I first wrote about Galicia back in August of 2006. I had been to the region extensively and needed to get the message out on an area that I saw as one of the greatest, undiscovered regions for producing world-class wines in Spain. Twelve years on I continue to be awed by a region whose potential keeps expanding exponentially. The changes I have seen in these years are tremendous. Today the focus is on identifying the specific microclimates that will gain in importance as the years go by. In that first article, I compared Galicia to the Loire Valley because we had no reference points. Today Galicia needs no comparison: it is its own place with incredible uniqueness worthy of being described as one of the great terroirs of the world.
The third part in our installment on Galicia wines focuses on the interior regions where there are nerve centers or "climates" of significant importance. We start with the Valdeaugas Valley in the southern part of Valdeorras where godello heroically survives the rugged conditions. In this "climate" two denominations coexist: Ribeira Sacra and Valdeorras. The winding river through this valley cuts in multiple directions creating innumerable microclimates where old vines are being brought back to life. As we continue west and cut through Ribeira Sacra, we come to another incredible area in the subzone of Amandi. In particular, the village of Doade here holds the key to the greatest wines from the region. The landscape speaks for itself with views that once seen are never forgotten. Finally, we arrive in Ribeiro. With its Atlantic climate and many waterways, this is a region where a new category of reds wines is now emerging. This is a new dawn for Galicia and one that promises to give us new magical experiences.