What's New in June

Château l’Oiselinière de la Ramée 2012

This wine is kind of stupid, honestly: to get a wine of this quality at this price hardly makes any sense.

What is Château l’Oiselinière de la Ramée? Well, it’s a single vineyard wine from a privileged site: on a gently sloping south-facing hill, on the north bank of the Sèvre river, right by its meeting point with the Maine. The soils here are schist and orthogneiss, the vines 80 years old. The wine is fermented with indigenous yeast and aged for 6 months in subterranean concrete vats. Pretty good for a wine with an everyday price tag.

And the 2012, which is landing this month, is absolutely killer. In addition to the trademark chalky minerality, this new vintage boasts an impressive floral component (think wildflowers in fresh spring meadows). It’s heavy on the citrus flavors, but there’s also an almost exotic note of under-ripe mango. And in the length, the persistence in mouth, it shows its qualities as a serious wine, while never forgetting its fun and chuggable side.

Now let’s talk food: the classic pairing is of course oysters and other shellfish (langoustines in particular are an excellent companion). But this 2012 Muscadet is also a great friend of other summer fare: garlicky beans, for example, or grilled vegetables with olive oil and vinegar. Those interested in more unorthodox pairings should consider opening a bottle with a teriyaki grilled pork chop for a true savory explosion.